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Outlet. Articles & Videos. In the 1950's, I'd take the family television's vacuum tubes down to Willow Grove Radio and TV Repair, check them with the giant tester machine, buy new replacement tubes, and reassemble the repaired television, so my mom and dad could enjoy their precious, respectively, Dean Martin and Red Skelton shows. In the 1960's, I studied radio and electronics at the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia.
After college, in the early 70's, I joined a rock 'n roll band as the soundman, learning how to operate the electronics that make music sound good. Then, I worked in a music store in Austin manufacturing, installing, repairing, and operating sound systems and components for recording studios, nightclubs, and touring bands.
I moved back to Charlottesville permanently in 1984 and opened a little demo recording studio. I also attempted to put to practical use the creative writing degree I had picked up along the way. In 2006, I finally came to my senses and got this job at Crutchfield where they actually pay me to ramble on, rant, and explain the things I love about music, electronics, and getting good sound. More from Buck Pomerantz. This guide will help you diagnose and treat problems with extraneous noise in your car audio system. Dealing with noise You've installed a new receiver or amplifier in your car, and now you have a noise problem. What can you do?
The trick is to determine what the source of the noise is. Noise can be introduced into your system from a number of sources. This is especially true if you have an amplifier. The type of noise you're hearing can help determine the cause. Read over this article for some hints and explanations of what can cause noise in your system. Use it as a checklist, eliminating possibilities until you find the culprit. You can also use this as a guide to walk you through the troubleshooting process.
And don’t forget – if you purchased your gear from Crutchfield, or separately, don't hesitate to call on our tech support team (have your Crutchfield invoice handy). Noise and your new receiver If you’ve just installed a new receiver, here are two quick and easy starting points. Noise in your receiver is often due to a poor ground wire connection or a poorly grounded antenna. Is your receiver securely grounded?
Improper ground is one of the biggest causes for introducing noise into your audio system. Is the ground wire located near a noise source (like a heater, air conditioner, or computer)? Is the ground wire actually connected to the vehicle's ground? Since the antenna lead can act as a ground (thereby enabling a new receiver to operate without its ground wire properly connected), the antenna lead is frequently the source of noise problems. Antenna noise Check to see if you're getting noise on all sources — CD, auxiliary/USB, AM, and FM If the noise is present only on the radio, then it's most likely coming through your antenna lead. Unplug the antenna. If the noise goes away, try an antenna noise suppressor (like American International's AS100).
This filter plugs in-line between your receiver and your antenna, breaking the ground path between them, thus preventing noise from entering your system. An antenna filter, installed between the vehicle's antenna and the receiver, can minimize noise entering your system from a poorly grounded antenna.
Radiated noise If the noise isn’t coming in through the antenna, try pulling the receiver from the dash while a CD is playing. If the noise goes away, it's being radiated into your system due to the receiver's proximity to a noise producer (like a heater motor or car computer). This is often referred to as “sideway noise.” If the noise-causing accessory has a motor, a source noise filter can be installed on the accessory's power lead to minimize radiated noise. If the car computer (or other motor-less accessory) is causing the problem, move your receiver's wiring away from that accessory to minimize the radiated noise. Try using magnetic shielding foil (also called Mu-metal) to shield the back of the receiver or wrap the wire or component that's radiating the noise into your system.
Engine noise Noise introduced through the power and ground wires connected to your receiver is called engine noise (sometimes referred to as “backway noise”). If engine noise is your culprit, you may hear a whining or clicking sound. Its pitch will usually vary with engine speed. If this is the case, you can install an alternator noise filter on the power line between the battery and the alternator to minimize the problem.
You can also install a noise filter on the receiver's power lead to cut down on signal pollution (American International's S15A (15-amp, 250-watt) or S25A (25-amp, 350-watt) filters, for example). Most often, however, backway noise comes from a loose or intermittent ground connection. See the section below about. An alternator noise suppressor connects inline between the alternator and battery, and can reduce high-pitched whining noise that modulates according to engine RPMs.
Noise and your new amplifier An amplifier can introduce noise into your system through a bad ground or through a poor mounting. Rubber grommets or feet can help isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the vehicle, a potential source of noise. If all else fails, install a noise suppressor.
The tricky part is figuring out which step or steps to take. Please read the rest of this section and try some of the simple tests. Where is the amp mounted? Is it near something that could be radiating noise, like a rear-mounted tuner or computer? If so, unbolt it and move it away to see if the noise stops. Remove your patch cables.
If you still hear noise, check to see if your amp is isolated from the vehicle's chassis. Any contact between your amp's metal casing and your vehicle's body could cause noise problems. Check your ground wire Is it securely attached to the vehicle's chassis with a good contact to clean metal? Your ground wire should ideally be 18' long at most — a longer ground wire can cause noise problems.
Improper grounding causes most system noise problems. Check your gain structure If you have an external amplifier in your system, the first thing to do is to quiet any system noise, which sounds like a constant, low hiss. First, check for system noise with the engine off. Insert a CD and put your CD player on pause. Listen to the system with the volume way down, then way up.
Put on music. If you hear hiss in either instance, reduce the gain on your amplifier. Pass more signal from the receiver to the amp by leaving the receiver's volume higher before you set the amp's gain.
Experiment until you eliminate the hiss or reduce it as much as possible. A tiny bit of hiss is okay — you won't hear it while driving. Noise in the patch cables Noise can be picked up by the RCA patch cables connecting your components. To test this, detach the cables from your amp. Insert one side (left or right) of a spare patch cable into the amp's left and right input jacks (see illustration below). Turn on your system and engine.
If the noise is gone, reconnect the cables to the amp, and disconnect them from your receiver. If you hear the noise, your patch cables are definitely picking it up. Try re-routing them. Separate them from your power cable by at least 18 inches. The inexpensive RCA cables many people use to connect their components don't have the insulation or conductivity necessary to deflect noise in a metallic, highly conductive automobile. How much noise your cable receives depends largely on the size of its “loop area;” the larger the loop area, the more vulnerable your cable is to induced interference. A cable's loop area is equal to the distance between its center conductor and outer shield times the length of one complete twist in a twisted pair configuration, or the entire length of the cable in a coaxial type.
Consider trading your old cable for one with a twisted pair design. You'll get a smaller loop area and less noise. Patch cables with a 'twisted pair' design help reject noise As a last resort, a ground loop isolator (like ) can be installed between the receiver's preamp outputs and your amp to minimize this problem. Noise picked up by the power or ground cables We discussed ground cables above, because that’s the cause of noise more often than not.
If the noise wasn’t due to a poor ground or through the stereo’s antenna cable, it may be coming in through the amplifier's main power cable. Noise can be created by cable of insufficient gauge, so you might try thicker cable. If you cannot find the faulty ground in your multi-amp system, a ground loop isolator can help minimize the problem.
Multiple amplifiers can also create ground loop problems, which can usually be solved by grounding each amplifier with its own separate wire. If you are unable to locate the cause, a ground loop isolator (like ) can be installed between the receiver's preamp outputs and the amplifiers to minimize this problem. Noise in speaker wiring Noise can also come in through the speaker wires. To test them, turn the system off and disconnect the speaker wires from the amps. Now start the car.
If the noise is still there, then it's being radiated into the speaker wires. Reposition them, or, as a last resort, shield them by wrapping them with Mu-metal foil.
Noise from electrical system If you've tried all of the noise-fighting tips above and you still hear the noise, the problem might be with your vehicle. You might simply need to fill your battery with fluid. If that doesn't help, have a mechanic check your alternator and battery. If your car is older and hasn't been tuned up recently, you may have ignition noise. It's a ticking noise that varies in speed as you accelerate. You may need a tune-up involving resistor-type spark plugs, shielded carbon-core spark plug wires, distributor cap, and coil.
If the noise doesn't disappear, then your ignition system may not be grounded well enough and is broadcasting ticks to other items such as your air cleaner, hood, exhaust system, etc. Chances are, grounding one of the under-hood components will eliminate the noise.
With your sound system on and the car running, try grounding each of these different components of the car. It's possible that grounding one of your car's components will eliminate the noise.
If so, make the ground permanent with a braided ground strap. A very effective fix for electrical system noise is called 'The Big Three' upgrade. This is where your vehicle's battery charging wire and chassis ground wires are augmented by adding large gauge wires (1/0- or 4-ga.) to those connecting the alternator to the battery's positive pole, the battery's negative pole to the chassis, and the chassis to the engine block. This establishes better current flow and more consistent voltage, which improves your system's signal to noise ratio. It also ensures against loose or restrictive ground connections, which, as said before, are common sources of noise.
Read our for more information. Noise and your nervous system Noise problems can be very frustrating, especially when you can't wait to hear your new equipment. It helps to remember that you've just placed a very sophisticated piece of electronic gear (a new receiver or amplifier) in the middle of an extremely complex system — your vehicle's electrical wiring. Noise is just nature's way of telling you that something's out of whack. Just run down the list, eliminating possible noise sources until you find the problem.
Crutchfield Tech Support If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. The toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert — 90 days-worth for only $30. Chris from Baltimore Posted on 9/30/2015 Hello Buck. I was thinking about installing a home/computer speaker system I already have into my car in order to save money.
The speaker system I have is the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 at 200 watts total system power (2 speakers and a 6.5inch subwoofer). It has an amp with a subwoofer knob and a main volume knob. The amp is described as a 'Digital/Linear A/B Amplifier'. The 2 speakers connect to the back of the sub, as does the amplifier, and the system power cord.To my understanding, all I will need to buy in order to install these in my vehicle is a power inverter? Would a 1000W power inverter be enough?
-The power cord coming out of the sub (that powers the whole system) only has two prongs, as in there's no ground. This would plug into the inverter which would be wired straight to the battery. Do you see any potential problems here, either with grounding or possible noise? I guess I won't know until I have the system installed but if it won't work, I'd like to know before I buy the inverter. Will I need an isolation transformer between the inverter and the speaker system or a ground fault circuit interrupter, or a ground loop isolator? Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 10/1/2015 Chris, I do not recommend putting stereo gear designed for home use in cars, where road noise and listener positioning become obstacles to fidelity.
What you propose is possible, but it won't be as loud as you think. Klipsch rates that system as 35 watts per speaker and 50 watts for the sub (120 watts total) while playing at 5% THD, audibly distorting. A more realistic interpretation would be to expect about a clean 70-watt total output.
AB amplifiers are about 50% efficient, so a 150-watt inverter should work. Don't forget to firmly secure the gear in your car so that in the event of an accident pieces of equipment don't become lethal projectiles.
As far as noise issues, you can't troubleshoot a problem that doesn't exist yet, but equipment designed for home use may not work very well with a car's electrical system. Ratan Varma from Cypress Posted on 12/9/2015 I am having a hissing sound coming in through the speakers in my 1998 Acura nsx after installing a pioneer avh 4100 nex. The nsx has a facotry amplified bose sound system. When I connect the blue wire on the harness 'antenna' it both grounds and operates the antenna, I get the hissing sound.my black ground does nothing. I have unplugged the antenna black cable as well and tried running music through Bluetooth and I still have the issue.
Not sure what to do. The hiss is very loud. Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 12/9/2015 Ratan, The vast majority of noise issues arise due to bad ground connections. Did you follow the wiring instructions on how to connect the receiver harness to your vehicle interface harness? It sounds like the receiver's trying to get its ground through a powered antenna connection instead of the black ground wire attached to the metal frame of your vehicle. For more detailed troubleshooting instructions, you can use the interactive to pinpoint your problem and offer a remedy.
Brian from Austin Posted on I recently installed a new Pioneer AVH-X2700BS. I have it running both a 1200W mono and 250W 4 channel RF Prime amp. I can hear the alternator at low volumes as a high pitched, albeit rather low volume whine. With the volume up, it can't be heard.
All 3 preouts to amps are run with twisted pair RCA cables. I experience the whine heavily in the front 2 speakers and less so in the rear, none in my subwoofers. After testing other inputs into the amp using alternate sources and RCAs on every channel, I've determined that this noise only occurs when the HU is my audio source. Adjusting the gain does not alleviate the whine, and the amplifiers are well powered and grounded. Voltage of the sanded ground points (a seperate grounding point for each amp) up to where paint is present reads 13.6V idle.
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The amps are powered by a 4AWG lead from the battery to a fused distribution block and a 4 and 8 AWG power lead to the 1200W and 250W amps respectively. RCAs are run on the opposite side of the vehicle from power, the one point where power and speaker wire are close to one another, they are positioned orthogonal. I can not, for the life of me, figure out where the source of that alternator whine is, and it's incredibly frustrating.
I have read that PICO fuses in pioneer HUs can blow and cause a similar issue, but I don't believe that is the case here, as the HU is brand new and I have not, as far as I know, removed the RCAs with it on. Any thought as to its source? Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on Brian, The vast majority of noise issues arise due to a bad connection or ground loop. Your troubleshooting has uncovered that neither your speaker wiring nor amplifiers are the source of the noise. You can continue troubleshooting the problem by following the steps in our interactive.
If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on for details. Matt from Indianapolis Posted on 1/15/2016 Hello, I have installed a radio on my golf cart, this is wire to a 48v to 12v converter. The radio works fine until I turn on the lights. With the lights on I lose the radio station it goes to static, I also tried playing music from a patch cord plugged into a Iphone and the same thing.
I tried hooking up the radio to it's own power converter and the same thing. Any suggestions. THe power reducer is hooked up across the battery pack. With golf carts they suggest not grounding anything to frame.
Dave from Dayton Posted on 2/15/2016 Hello, I am replacing my TV in my conversion van. I am going from a 12v DC model to a 120v AC model. Testing the TV with the inverter I plan to use I have no issues with audio from the tv speakers or even out the headphone jack when using a small pair of computer speakers (this is the output I plan to use to feed into the van's DHS surround sound amp).
When I test the system in the van with the DHS amp, I get a loud noise once the RCA's are connected into the TV via the headphone jack. The noise seems to be coming from the LED TV itself as I can move the RCA cables farther away and it seems to reduce the noise, but still very loud. The van came with a Pyramid NS-21 and is in line.
I tried another smaller AC TV and it worked much better. Should I be looking at insulating the RCA cables or insulation material for the TV or both? I could take this TV back and try another one, but I am not sure how to know how much noise is generated by each. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 2/16/2016 Dave, It sounds like the electrical system using the inverter has a different ground potential than the van's audio system, creating a noisy ground loop. Isolation transformers in the signal path might help.
If you bought any of your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number will be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on for details. Alex from Richmond Posted on 3/21/2016 Excellent article. I've spent 1+ week trying to resolve an engine noise issue to no avail.
I have an '03 BMW for which I just installed a new aftermarket (Dynavin) head unit (HU). The OEM radio connection is in the trunk. I was thus provided with a 20-foot long extension to route this connection into the dash & into the head unit. The connection goes like this: OEM stereo connection in trunk OEM-to-Dynavin adapter cable extension HU. When the engine is running, there is a buzzing noise coming from the right-hand speakers.
Only at idle. Revving causes it to disappear. With revs on the way down & at idle, it reappears.
Here's the catch: the ONLY reproducible fix I've been able to find is connecting the head unit directly to the OEM/Dynavin adapter cable. I thought it was a grounding issue. I shortened the extension's ground cable. I grounded the HU directly to the grounding point in the trunk on the chassis. I've tried entirely separating the speaker cables from the power/BUS/etc. Connections from one another.
I've re-wired the pins on the extension so that they source power/ground/illumination directly from the OEM HU's pins in the dash. I replaced the RH speaker cables. The seller I purchased the HU from has been very helpful & is very knowledgeable/experienced. He's also stumped.
He says differences in resistance between different equipment on their ground circuits manifest as noise. Only potential fix is a power line filter. Any other ideas? Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 3/21/2016 Alex, I'm not familiar with that receiver or what a 20-foot long connection harness consists of, but it sure sounds like it's picking up interference somewhere. Most noise issues come from grounding problems, so the first thing you should do is check all grounds.
If you bought any of your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice.
If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on for details. James from Crystal Lake Posted on 5/5/2016 I recently installed a JVC receiver and after full proper installation I turn the car on and hear a constant white noise sound coming from all the speakers at the same sound level. I turn the radio up or down the same white sound is still heard and does not fluctuate any time. The sound can be heard over the music and is not ideal to listen with the noise. I checked the wiring and what I came across is the remote wire is what is causing this noise but why? It was connected the same way with the last receiver I had installed and no white noise!
This receiver is an upgrade with Bluetooth iPod ready and has a talk mic but that is not installed as it was optional. Can I attach a noise suppressor to the remote wire? What else would you suggest? Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 5/6/2016 James, The remote output lead of that receiver is to be used to turn on aftermarket audio processors and amplifiers - if you don't have those, that wire shouldn't be connected to anything. If you bought your receiver at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system.
Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on for details. Mark Stettler from Hillsboro, OR Posted on 5/18/2016 Hi Buck! I've recently bought an Alpine HD148BT receiver from Crutchfiled which I am using in a portable 'Boom Box' that I have made.
The box is powered by running standard AC from the wall through a 12V 10A DC converter; the converter is a two-pronged device, so there is no explicit ground connection. The unit operates flawlessly (no noise) in every mode except when I connect ANYTHING to the AUX input on the front. Even an unconnected 3.5mm stereo line (with no device connected to it), will cause unacceptably loud noise. I have experimented with all combinations of levels from the connected devices and the input settings on the receiver itself, but the noise issue remains. One other piece of data: I tried an Alpine CDE163BT receiver in this exact setup and had NO noise problems at all with the AUX jack.
Because of this, I am concerned that the HD148BT has a fundamental noise problem with it's AUX input jack; I have seen similar comments on the web with this unit. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you, Mark. Jaeden L Hudson Posted on 7/21/2016 I am having a rather different noise issue than what is being described above. I have 3 amps. I am running all of my speaker wiring on the same side as my rca cables. (using factory harness for connecting speakers to amp as I can not re-wire the doors) The power wire is on the other side.
I get a static noise from my speakers when my subwoofer plays. This is at lower volumes, but is noticeable. If I turn the subwoofer preout off on my head unit the noise goes away. What could be causing this? Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 7/21/2016 Jaeden, First, I'd find out precisely what the source of the static is.
With the full-range speakers turned down, does the static play from the sub? Then you'd check the sub amp and its wiring. If it's being induced in the speakers by the subwoofer's vibrations, there may be a loose speaker wire somewhere. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30.
Click on for details. Stephen S from Bensalem Posted on 9/12/2016 Hey Buck! So I have followed your extensive checklist to navigate and attempt to find out where excess noise is coming from my 2016 Volkswagon Jetta. However I am still getting some strange behavior out of my subwoofer. When the vehicle is parked everything sounds great, however every once in a while no matter what type of music I am listening to there is an excess buildup of volume coming from the subwoofer to the point it is shaking the car and it drowns out everything, five minutes later everything sounds perfect! I am using the stock head unit and running a non powered LOC from PAC. All grounds in the system as well as in the car have been tested and are reading between 0.2ohms I am using an ignition switch wire as a trigger wire, my head unit is run off of a data system that has no trigger wire.
The gain on the LOC is maxed out in order to get the voltage needed to fire the kicker amp and everything was Oscilloscope and voltage tested to check for proper tuning. My question is what else could be causing this issue and would it be wise to switch to a powered Line Output Converter like an audio control lc2i? The parts installed for the amplifier are the Kicker 4ga 2 channel installation kit, PAC line converter, Kicker 300cxa amplifier, and the subwoofer is a Kicker comp 12inch subwoofer. Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 10/3/2016 Eon, Acoustic feedback, that loud ringing that occurs when a microphone picks up and rebroadcasts the sound of a speaker, would only be possible if your factory Bluetooth system is in hands-free calling mode and the volume's too high. Maybe there's something wrong with your receiver - the microphone should not be on unless you're making a hands-free call. Or maybe what you're hearing isn't feedback, but some other kind of problem, like a ground loop.
I doubt that adding an expensive processor will solve the issue. Perhaps using our will help you pin-point the problem better. Dolan Posted on Hey, i installed a aux cord in my 2004 Honda Accord through the stereo system inside the dash. There's this whining noise that occurs when the volume is higher than 50% and increases in pitch when I accelerate.
I purchased a ground loop isolated but it seemed to not help the problem. A day ago a very quiet noise like a hum or whine is coming from the engine when the radio is off and a very loud whine when I switched the input to aux, although the radio and CD player are completely fine. There is no interference when the car engine is off and the stereo is on though. Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on Dolan, Most of the time when engine whine is audible it's because of a bad ground connection somewhere. I don't know how you've installed your aux input, whether it's to a factory radio or aftermarket receiver, but it sounds like you need to check over your wiring. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice.
Install Ground Loop Isolator Car Audio
If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on for details. Johnny Fox from Cisco Posted on 2/1/2017 I have four different amps in my system and I am having issues with noise. Im running 2 T2000bd and one of them seems to be the source of the noise.
It's very bad with one of the amps hooked up but when I unhooked that amp the noise dropped drastically. Could the problem be in the amp itself? Also I run a ground distribution block with all four amps hooked to the distribution block and it's running 1/0 Stinger to the vehicle chassis. Im also running a 3 battery system consisting of 2 D3400 and a D3100.
I need help please. The noise doesn't get louder as I drive faster but when I turn that one particular amp on I can hear a brief cracking noise in my subs before the whining starts. Any help.would.be appreciated. Tobias from America Posted on 3/18/2017 hey there ive got intereference in my car audio, it is not always present but when it is it is a loud whirring that can change in pitch when i change gears (manual car). I thought the problem was an old headunit so i bought a new one and replaced the RCA's going to the amplifier (aftermarket) as the fitting going into the back of the headunit was loose. This didn't fix the problem however. The volume of the interefence is also unaffected by the audio level, if the noise is present i can turn the audio to zero and the noise stays the same volume (horribly loud).
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Infact its so loud i can't even use my head-unit at all. The noise is present on all options (radio, aux in etc etc) Any help would be greatly appreciated as im at my wits end. Greg from Ogden Posted on 4/23/2017 Great article.
I have an interesting problem. I bought an Axxera head unit from you guys a while back, and when I initially set it up I've always had a little bit of noise, nothing major, and I've lived with it. Now recently, about a year or so later, I can listen for differing amounts of time (sometimes 10 minutes, sometimes 20, sometimes 40) and then all of a sudden I start getting a lot of noise in the system. So much to the point you can barely hear the music.
The sound levels get all out of wack. Sometimes the highs disappear and I can only hear the lows. Is this a giveaway to a particular part in the system? I figured I would check the amp grounding first since it is easiest to get to and it seems to be grounded fine. My head unit is hooked to a wiring harness, so I doubt that ground would be an issue.
Thanks, Greg. Antonio Pires from Lisbon - Portugal Posted on 5/4/2017 Hi Buck After I repaired (I'm not an electronic tech) my radio module from my Range Rover with 2 TDA7492D amplifiers. After that the sound is great but I gained a whining noise that is more audible when the engine is running and specialy on the cd changer and on the cassete mode. I use the cassete mode to listen music from my smartphone. I just have tried all the things (except the alternator supressor). Better ground connection for the mule, resistors on the 'in' of the amplifiers but, nothing solved that whining. This whining noise doesn't exist before the repair.
What you could sugest or advise for me to do? Best regards Antonio Pires (Portugal).
Connor Hall from San Ramon Posted on 5/9/2017 I've just installed a new 4-Channel amp in my truck. I was getting a whine/hiss noise coming through my speakers.
I immediately went to Crutchfield to try and elimante this problem. I have ran my RCA's from the back of the head unit to my amp above the carpet, away from any power wires.
This did not work, I have tried several different sets of RCA's and noise is still present. I have a Pioneer head unit, tried the old grounding trick on back of the Headunit RCA's to radio cage, this as well did not work.
Moved headunit in and out of dash to see if noise is being introduced behind headunit in dash, noise was still present. This now makes me beilive that noise is being introduced due to a ground loop. My subwoofer amp and speaker amp are on a separate ground. My headunit is grounded to the chassis ground. I may wire my own ground for the headunit to the firewall/chassis. As well as checking and cleaning my amplifier ground to see if this will help Eliminate the noise. My question is, is it possible noise is being introduced into my speaker wires, ran off the 4-Channel amp, to the factory speaker wiring behind my head unit like you're post on wiring a 4-Channel amp using an EFX-9Wire.
I have the speaker wires ran under my carpet, with the RCA's, away from any power wires. Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 5/9/2017 Joey, It sounds like your relays are radiating electromagnetic interference (EMI). This could be due to poor relay design or loose contacts and connections. If your relays are aftermarket installed, you might check all connections, especially the grounds, and tighten anything that's loose. For stock relays you might be able to shield them with foil covers. Unfortunately, this kind of noise gets picked up everywhere in a system and is difficult to eliminate. Shiheed from Philadelphia Posted on 6/29/2017 Hello.
I'm having issues with my 2016 impala. I have my system hooked up the other day. I picked my car and it was fine. Shortly after my base speakers started to just give or issues. That base would just hit hard even with the music down. I was told from the shop that it's the active noise central giving a bad signal to my subs. The 4 door speakers work fine.
The shop have no clue on how to disconnect the active noise control system. If you have any info on this it would be appreciated. Julia from Colchester Essex uk Posted on 8/9/2017 I have an Audi A3 convertible. When my iPod was in the dock I got poor radio reception on a couple of stations, when iPod is removed it's fine.
I've just had a new pioneer AVH- 8700 fitted which has iplay so the iPod docking station was removed and radio was fine. I had a thinkware front dash camera fitted yesterday and now the reception is poor and crackly again on the same radio channels. So something's not right and causing the interference. Can you advise pretty please?
Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield Posted on 9/7/2017 Coleman, It sounds like you have a classic case of a ground loop, when a system's power circuit has more than one path to ground. Most often this is the result of a loose or otherwise inadequate ground or power connection for the amplifier.
Sometimes a cracked fuse will do the same. Or the amplifier's case touching the car's metal body. Unplug all the RCAs from the amp to troubleshoot and fix the power wiring until the noise goes away. If you bought your amp from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice.
If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on for details. Max Noriega from Gualala Posted on 1992 ford explorer eddie bauer edition 4dr 4x4 I have the audible whine in my speakers when i accelerate and get the thump / pop when i change stations and the sound is still there when using a SD or usb input. It sounds like its mostly coming from the rear door speakers. Ill be honest i dont know a whole lot about wiring and stereo systems so after reading tons of forums i just ordered a ground loop isolator with the red n white audio plugs. After pulling off the entire side inner panel and taking off thr seat belt bolt i get to the factory amp and there is no way to connect using the audio plugs.
The amp has pun style plastic connectors on top and bottom. Anybody know how i can make this work??
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. Speaker Noise Symptoms Engine noise in the vehicles stereo speakers. It’s a pretty common problem when an aftermarket radio or amplifier is installed. The most common description of the noise is a whining sound that gets louder as the engines RPMs increase. This is very annoying and sometimes embarrassing. If your new automotive stereo system is causing unwanted engine noise the fix can be relatively simple. Speaker Noise Causes The normal cause of engine noise in the stereo system is the ground.
In any 12 volt system there is a 12volt + and a 12volt. Often times a vehicle manufacturer will ground all of the dash instruments to one central location. This is great for them but bad for car stereo enthusiasts. When we hook up our new stereo we often times (if done properly) will use an installation wire harness. This wire harness will match up to the vehicles wiring exactly. So your ground and power are coming from the fuse block and a central ground location (vehicle standard).
Speaker Noise Solutions 1. A quick and easy way to stop that terrible whining noise coming through your car stereo speakers is to use a ground loop isolator or inline noise suppressor. You can view.
These can resolve the issue. Check it out. They don’t look awful and they’re easy to use. A simple solution can usually fix this engine noise problem. Change the stereo ground location. Most times this can be done and un-done(if it doesn’t help) very easily.
Behind the stereo will be anywhere from 10 to maybe 16 wires coming out of the stereo into a wire harness clip. Between the stereo and the first wire harness clip you will need to cut the ground (Black 12V-) wire. This will break the ground and the stereo will not turn on at this point. The part of the wire that is coming from the back of the stereo will need to be lengthened and run to an alternate grounding location. Most of the time there is a bare metal dash frame under the upholstery that you will see when the stereo is removed from the dash.
With a digital multi-meter in hand you may test for a good ground source. Make sure to set the meter to test for continuity. You can make sure that the meter is set correctly by touching the lead ends together, this should give a beep or chirp from the meter letting you know that there is continuity. Clip one of the meter leads to a known good ground (somewhere in the door jam usually works) and then you may begin looking inside the dash cavity for a ground location. Once you have a beep or chirp from the meter you know you have found a ground location.
We’ll only know that this is a good location or not once the ground is hooked up and we turn the stereo on. Until then, cross your fingers and hope for the best. Hooking up the stereos ground wire to the new ground location is up to you. Every situation is different so you may need a crimp end or some other modifications inside the dash cavity to get the ground wire hooked up. Just changing the stereos ground location will often resolve the engine noise problem. When this doesn’t work we resort to a “” or “Inline Noise Suppressor”. There are a few different styles that are used for different applications.
There are noise suppressors that are used in the power line, in the RCA/audio cable lines and some with 3.5mm stereo cable input and out put. You must determine which is right for your application. Some stereos will only create this whining when there is an auxiliary audio input used. These will usually be something like an MP3 player. There are ground loop isolators for use with MP3 players. Please click the following link to shop for an.
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SoundBot SB363 ground loop isolator - solution to background noise to home and car stereo systems.
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